A guide to fitting an Undermounted Sink

A guide to fitting an undermounted sink

As a sink is often the focal point of the kitchen, fitting a new kitchen sink can give a revitalising lift to a tired room.

There is such a wide range of sinks available there is a sink to seamlessly match any style of kitchen from an ultra modern minimalist undermounted sink to a more traditional ceramic Belfast sink.

Undermounted sinks are becoming ever popular due to their seamless minimalist look. In order to achieve this seamless look when fitting your undermounted sink simply follow this step by step guide.

Before installing a New Sink

It is important to check whether the current plumbing and pipes are long enough to reach the desired location for the new sink. It may be necessary to extend the hot and cold water pipes as well as the waste system in order for the new sink to reach the new pipes before installation of the new sink is started.

Fitting an Undermount Sink

  1. The first thing to do when fitting a new sink into a work surface is to use the template supplied to measure the area and line up the sink so that it falls an equal distance from the front and back of the work surface. It is also important to consider the depth of the basin. Make sure there is enough room under the work surface to accommodate the depth of the sink.

  2. Once the placement of the sink is set, trace an outline of the template onto the work surface. A good way to do this if the work surface won't mark is to mark out the outline in masking tape and draw on this.

  3. Remove the template and using a ruler measure the overlap distance all the way around the outline for the sink to rest on the work surface. The manufacturer should have provided this measurement.

  4. Use a 12mm gauge flat bit to drill 4 holes in the corners of the sink, not drilling outside of the inner line.

  5. Using a jigsaw suitable for cutting the work surface material, cut around the centre of the outline. Make sure the work surface is supported to avoid it splitting especially around the edges. Place masking tape on the heel of the jigsaw to prevent scratching the work surface.

    Be sure to use anchors in top if recommended by the manufacturer.

  6. Place a bead of caulk along the entire bottom edge of the upside-down (self-rimming) sink. Position it carefully over the opening and press it down firmly until excess caulk oozes out along the edges. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for any additional hardware that comes with the sink.

  7. The individual taps are mounted through the holes in the sink using plumber's putty. An adjustable wrench works well to tighten up the hardware that holds the tap in place.

  8. The basket strainer should be packed with plumber's putty and pushed firmly down into place.

  9. The strainer should be threaded underneath and the washer added. The lock nut should be tightened until the excess putty oozes from the sides of the sink. All excess putty should be wiped off with a clean cloth.

  10. Install the P-trap next by connecting the tail piece to the basket strainer using a slip nut over a washer. Then connect the P-trap to the tail piece with another washer and slip nut. Attach the P-trap to the wall stub-out with a curved drain extension pipe. Once the assembled drain is in place, tighten the nuts firmly by hand.

  11. Remove the aerator from the tap and turn the water supply on at the shut off valves to flush the system, after a few minutes reconnect the aerator.

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